A morning tour of the old town with our historian, who walks you through the layered story of the bridge: its Ottoman origins, its destruction in 1993, and its painstaking reconstruction. You climb the minaret of the Koski Mehmed Paša mosque for the photograph nobody else in your group will have.
Afternoon drive to Blagaj, where the Buna river pours out of a cliff beneath an old dervish lodge. We take tea on the terrace above the water and linger until the light softens. Dinner tonight is private, beside the Neretva, by a chef who cooks only for UltraTravel groups.